Actually, Albania is Pretty Cool
Well it turns out that Albania is an interesting, wonderful place if you just calm down and stop being anxious about things. On the whole it is probably one of the best countries I've visited. Certainly one of the most unique. Particularly as a solo traveller it provided so many great opportunities to meet new people, all of whom were doing very similar things. This led to many of my plans being decided on a whim based on the experiences of others. I definitely didn't know much about the cities/towns in Albania prior to arriving, so it was great to learn more from others, and learn about these places myself. All in all, Albania will definitely be a place I'll return to. Here's a little overview of the places I visited.
Tirana
The bustling, busy, boiling capital of the Balkan republic was extremely overwhelming at first, however, on subsequent visits (I was there on three separate occasions) I grew to appreciate the chaos. It probably doesn't require too much time there if you are visiting Albania for a limited period, but there are still some interesting things to see, such as the "BunkArt" museum, an exhibition on the history of Albania in a former nuclear bunker used by the mad dictator Hoxha. I also met some cool people in Tirana (lots of Australians, but some Brits and a cool Swede or two) some of whom I hope to see again at some point. The hostel I stayed at a couple of times, The Blue Door, was fantastic, possibly one of the best hostels I've stayed at. It had a fantastic balance of socialness and chillness. Organised activities most evenings, with a great outdoor common space, but not over the top drink, drink, drink vibes which some "party" hostels I've stayed at have had. A particularly fun night was a karaoke night with some fantastic tunes like Don't Look Back in Anger and Lay All Your Love On Me (ABBA always gets the crowd going I've discovered. Especially Swedish people). Tirana is a fascinating place and clearly in the midst of lots of growth with new skyscrapers dotting the cityscape, however, that growth has also led to there being an obscene amount of cars around the city. A well functioning public transport system would unlock the city, in my humble (public transport enthusiast) opinion.
Durres
I spoke about Durres briefly last post. It's ok. Closest beach to Tirana, but honestly a shit beach being a kiwi. Rubbish and pay-to-use deck chairs litter the beach. But the water is pretty nice. There's an old Venetian tower there which is pretty cool, and a bit more laid back than Tirana. I had a few days here on my own, basically talking to no one, so my view is possibly skewed because of that.
Shkoder
The city in the north, near the Montenegrin border, was a nice place for me to take stock and think about the next parts of my journey. The hostel here was a good place to do that, with a great bunch of people I met during my time there. I made use of the tours that the hostel put on, with a trip up into the mountains to go cliff jumping and swimming in the river there. The water was a breathtaking turquoise blue, sparkling and glistening in the 35 degree heat. Incredibly appealing to swim in. There was also a sunset boat cruise along the big lake adjacent to the city, with a dinner by the water and a night-time swim gazing up at the stars. That particular swim was a "pinch-me" kinda moment on my trip, and reminded me how incredibly fortunate I am to be doing what I've done this year. I frequented (along with others from the hostel) a local bar which did $8 cocktails, with the bartender getting to know me and offering 50% off my drink on my final night there. This was one of the many examples of the friendliness of the Albanian people.
Himare
Himare is a town/city on the southern coast of Albania near the Greek border. On the Ionian Sea, the water here is crystal clear, some of the best-looking seawater I've seen. Making full use of the beach, I swam everyday, and ate some pretty good food too. The highlight here was a beach along from the main town called Filikuri, where you had to literally climb down some rocks for about 30m, using a rope, to get to the beach. Reading, writing, soaking up the sun took up the non-swimming hours of the day here, as well as admiring the brilliant sunsets and moonrises. A very cool place to relax and refresh, and not nearly as busy (so I've heard) as other Albanian beach towns. I would very much recommend visiting here.
After Albania, I took the day-long bus north to Kotor in Montenegro. My impression of Kotor was mixed. A stunning old city, with a walled old town, and a fortress perched on the top of hill, all set on a fjord-like bay was truly awesome. What wasn't so great was the swarming hordes of ignorant, oblivious cruise ship tourists infesting the city during the day. Being a top spot for cruise ships to dock, the town was orientated towards charging high prices for everything. This left a bit of a bad taste in my mouth, especially after Albania, however, the place is truly unique and worth visiting. My hostel here was a disappointment as well, not particularly social, especially in a time when I needed some company. Given this, I tried out an app I'd seen advertised called "Nomad Table" where you can meet other solo travellers. I gave it a go, and ended up going out for a drink (or several) with this Irish guy, Mark. We subsequently met a bunch of other people, and if my memory is correct, we ended the night overlooking the bay, drinking raki (a Balkan/Turkish spirit). It was a great night and well needed.
From Kotor I was to fly to London to begin another chapter of my voyage (is voyage the right word? I feel like it indicates there's an end point, which at this stage, is there?). Anyway, I'll leave the UK chapter for the next post, but here's me summing up my time in the Balkans. Full of ups and downs, like the rest of my trip to be fair, I found the Balkans to be a unique and wonderful place. Friendly people, both the locals and the travellers along the way, I made many connections, and strengthened some existing ones. Inexpensive for the "Western" traveller (well Albania at least), the prices make travelling on a budget much more accessible, with more activities, food and drink available than the times travelling in Western Europe. Chaotic, but culturally distinct, there is much to learn. As well, beautiful nature, beaches, mountains, lakes, bays and rivers, the Balkans ticks a lot of boxes in this regard. But NZ is still better (but I'm a little biased I guess). I reflected and learnt, relaxed and rushed, met some people I hope to remain in touch with for years to come, and overall had a unique, positive and fulfilling experience.
Stay tuned. My adventures in the little island off the coast of Europe will follow soon (I promise). If you've made it this far, I appreciate you.
Excellent summary of Albania and your time there, looking forward to the UK leg blog :-)
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